Trek guides

Independent trekking, written from the trail.

Long-form, dated, opinionated guides to the routes we know first-hand. No 'top 10 treks in Nepal' SEO sludge — just useful, current information.

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Solo trekking 14 min read

Annapurna Base Camp solo, without a guide: a 2026 guide

I just walked to ABC alone, no guide, no porter, no tour. Here's exactly how it works, what to pack, what permits you actually need, and the pieces of the internet that are still telling you you need a guide (you don't).

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6 more, written first-hand

Solo trekking 8 min

Do you need a guide for Annapurna? (No — here's why)

The "guides are now mandatory" headline keeps doing the rounds. The truth is more nuanced: it applies to specific restricted regions, not Annapurna. Here's what the law actually says.

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Trek guides 11 min

Mardi Himal independent trek: route, costs and permits

The quieter alternative to ABC. 4–6 days on a ridge with views of Machhapuchhre and the Annapurnas. Easier than the circuit, prettier than Poon Hill, and entirely doable solo.

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Trek guides 9 min

Poon Hill / Ghorepani independent trek: the honest beginner guide

The classic 3–5 day trek, perfect first Himalayan trip. Easy lodges, marked trails, and one ACAP permit is all the paperwork you need.

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Permits 7 min

Tsum Valley permits explained: MCAP vs RAP

Tsum Valley needs both a conservation permit (MCAP) and a restricted-area permit (RAP). They're not the same thing, they cost different amounts, and only one of them you can actually buy yourself.

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Permits 6 min

ACAP permit cost in 2026: every fee broken down

NPR 3,000? NPR 3,087? NPR 6,000 if you wait until the checkpost? The exact ACAP permit cost in 2026, what each line item means, and how to avoid paying double.

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Planning 16 min

Independent trekking in Nepal: the honest 2026 guide

What's legal, what's smart, what's overrated. A practical guide for trekkers who want to plan their own trip without paying an agency to do it for them.

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